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Comedogenic or non-comedogenic oils
We been asked quite a few times over the last few years which of our oils to choose if you are looking for non-comedogenic oils, so-called non-comedogenic oils. It has become common knowledge that certain products have a tendency to clog pores, so it was about time we came up with this article on comedogenic oils.
Oils by comedogenic value
Before deciding whether to make your choice based solely on a comedogenic rate, we recommend that you read the entire article. There are some "buts" when it comes to this standard in cosmetics.
Also note that the word comedogen is found both in Danish in the form of comedogene and in English in the form of comedogenic. We will switch between these terms a bit, as different people use different words. But the meaning is the same.
Here we bring you the ultimate list of comedogenic oils.
What is comedogenic and non-comedogenic?
It has to do with skin care products and especially products that target acne. When something is comedogenic, it tends to cause blackheads by blocking the pores of the skin. Non-comedogenic products do not block the pores of the skin.
So the fact that something is comedogenic has an impact on whether it blocks pores.
A "comedo" is an "acne lesion", a hard blockage created by an excess of sebum in a pore. This blockage can lead to blackheads and pimples, so "comedogenic" refers to ingredients or products that tend to block pores and promote comedones (plural of comedo) or acne.
Acne is often caused by overproduction of sebum (also known as sebum, which is the oily substance on the skin) and bacteria, but when pores become clogged with sebum, bacteria can grow rapidly and whiteheads (clogged pores that have reached the surface), blackheads (clogged pores that has reached the surface of the skin and darkened due to bacterial oxidation) and pustules (clogged pores that remain below the surface) begin to appear.
Although non-comedogenic skin care products cannot prevent acne, they also do not promote pore clogging and acne production. Non-comedogenic ingredients and products are recommended by dermatologists and medical professionals for people with oily or acne-prone skin.
How to do a comedogenic test and a big “BUT”…
The methods behind the comedogenicity score used to arrive at the ratings were flawed, but testing continued with an improved method. Right?
The comedogenic scale first gained attention in 1979 when a famous dermatologist named Dr. Albert M. Kligman (who invented Retin-A) published the results of his experiments. However, he started experimenting already in the 50s.
BUT... The comedogenic scale is a product of animal testing
Dr. Albrt M. Kligman tested the comedogenicity of the substances by applying them to the inside of rabbit ears (yes, it was good - the comedogenic scale is a product of animal testing, so if you are 100% vegan, you should actually look the other way and forget the comedogenicity of the products ) and then check whether the skin tissue developed microcomedones.
Initially, the study was well received by the medical world as it provided information previously unavailable. Inspired by Dr. Kligman's work, many others performed their own tests (using the same methodology) and added more and more substances to the list.
Finally, many asked questions that were impossible to ignore, such as: "Are you sure that rabbit ears do not form comedones on their own"? And “exactly how much does a rabbit ear resemble human skin? Both pretty good questions.
So Dr. Kligman came up with an alternative way to assess comedogenicity: he tested it on people, specifically prison inmates (he was later sued for this). However, he tested on the upper back, and we all know that is still different from facial skin.
He concluded that rabbit ears were more sensitive than human skin and that "substances that are weakly comedogenic in rabbits are probably safe for humans, with the possible exception of people with acne. So he basically admitted that results based on his research on rabbit ears did not reflect reality for human skin Excellent.
Can you even use the comedogenic list for anything then?
Yes you can. But while many may choose 100% from the list, it cannot be used in its "black and white standard". We believe you should "wear the gray coat".
First, the value of this test is not confirmed by any organization or ministry of health. Second, it is based on violations of both animal testing and human rights (at least today).
Finally, all we can say is that we have the values for this list today and if you still want to use it to select products, you are free to do so.
Importance of comedogenicity assessments (comedogenicity values or assessment)
Products that are comedogenic are categorized into 6 different values called comedogenicity grades or comedogenicity values. This makes natural oils and they are the ones we will cover in this list.
Although this value tells the truth about whether or not the oil blocks the pores, these values should be taken with a grain of salt.
Many beauty bloggers write about how important it is to choose skin care products based on comedogenicity ratings to avoid acne.
Acne experts believe it's more than just a number. Most products today are mixed products and the value is derived from a test where each ingredient is 100% pure. A product that is mixed does not need to be on the list of products to avoid. In this case, you would probably need to look at the first 20-30% of the content and then judge the product.
However, that doesn't mean you should completely discount the value of comedogenicity assessments. We, along with a number of others, believe that comedogenicity data can be particularly useful in two cases:
Determination of absolute negative. Since people with particularly acne-prone skin are often more sensitive than non-acne-prone people, a substance with a comedogenicity rating of 0 to 1 should be safe to use.
Determining the worst of the worst. Substances that are high on the comedogenic scale should be treated as potentially suspect.
There is so much uncertainty in the comedogenicity data that anything that falls between these two extremes isn't very useful for anything.
Classification of comedogenicity
We have already mentioned that the evaluation of products in relation to whether they are comedogenic or not is based on 6 different values. The values and their meaning can be found here:
A comedogenic value of 0 is believed to be non-comedogenic and therefore won't clog your pores.
A comedogenic classification of 1 implies a slight risk of the oil clogging the pores.
A comedogenic rating of 2 means that the oil will not clog pores for most people, but some will start to notice clogged pores.
A comedogenic rating of 3 This is where some people will break out with this oil, but about as many people will not break out depending on their skin type.
A comedogenic rating of 4 The data suggests that most people will break out when using this oil unless they have a good tolerance to it. This depends on a number of skin type factors.
A comedogenic rating of 5 is pretty much a guaranteed chance of breakouts. Very few people tolerate oils labeled 5, but they do exist!
What should you pay extra attention to when choosing products based on their comedogenic value?
If your skin is prone to acne, you will primarily try to find products where the ingredients are predominantly 0, 1 and 2. 3 may be ok if it is a product that washes off relatively quickly or if it does not irritate your skin.
Everyone's skin reacts differently. Some people can use ingredients with a value of 4 without problems. Once you start learning what your skin likes best, your skin care shopping will also become a lot easier.
If you're prone to blackheads and pimples, it's best to avoid substances that rate 4-5 on the scale. If a product you've been using without problems is on the list of products classified as comedogenic, you don't necessarily need to stop using it or expect to break out from it.
Oils that do not clog pores
In the list below you will find all the oils we have. If you're looking for oils that absolutely won't clog the pores of your skin, look for those with a comedogenic rate of 0.
For most people, oils with a value of 0-2 will not clog pores and for a few, even those with a value of 3.
If you have problems with acne and clogged pores, you should generally avoid oils with a value of 4-5.
Sea buckthorn oil for the face
With the professional name Hippophae rhamnoides, wolf's thorn is also popularly known as dog's thorn, wolf's thorn, parsnip, Siberian pineapple, etc.
Incredibly intense red-orange color, sea buckthorn oil is extremely medicinal, but also a real elixir of beauty!
Dry skin will love it because it makes it supple, mature skin will use it as a weapon in the fight against wrinkles, while with sensitive and damaged skin, sea buckthorn oil helps in regeneration.
How is it possible that sea buckthorn oil has so many benefits for different skin types? We can get a little more familiar with what makes this oil so special below.
Sea buckthorn oil contains many valuable ingredients:
very high content of vitamin C (more than in lemons and oranges), which gives the face a beautiful complexion and brightens spots and redness
high content of vitamin E, which acts as an antioxidant and protects the skin from free radicals, especially in the case of UV radiation
high content of beta-carotene (vitamin A), which has anti-inflammatory properties - soothes irritations, redness and itching in the deeper layers of the skin, while at the same time it has a regenerative effect, by accelerating wound healing, but also prevents premature aging of the skin
a large number of unsaturated fatty acids: linoleic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid, and it is especially rich in palmitoleic and palmitic acid, which help the skin to maintain its natural barrier and prevent the formation of wrinkles
it is rich in fruit acids (AHA), which ease pigment disorders and reduce the appearance of age spots
Thanks to its well-balanced active ingredients, with regular use of sea buckthorn oil, your skin will be nourished and young.
Buckthorn oil for hair
This precious oil has a similar effect on the skin as well as on the hair. Ingredients such as amino acids and omega-3 and omega-7 fatty acids contribute to hair regeneration and provide it with nutrients.
Dry hair will be strengthened from the inside, shiny and easier to comb because sea buckthorn oil also stimulates keratin production.
The need for sea buckthorn oil
In addition to external use in skin, hair or nail care, sea buckthorn oil can also be used orally – you can drink it as such or add it to meals.
The benefits of this use of dogwood are also numerous. We are already familiar with the fact that sea buckthorn oil is rich in vitamins and has a positive effect on the immune system, because it also contains vitamin B12, which, apart from meat, can rarely be found in plants, which makes this plant especially dear to vegetarians and vegans. .
Beta-carotene is, among other things, good for the eyes, while unsaturated fatty acids protect the stomach and intestines from acid during the internal use of sea buckthorn.
Almond oil is an excellent non-comedogenic oil
Precious almond oil is ideal for dry and sensitive skin because it hydrates the skin, while preventing moisture loss, improves its balance and penetrates into the deeper layers of the skin, making it more elastic, yet it is very mild and soothes irritations. It is considered hypoallergenic, so it is recommended even for the sensitive skin of babies!
Considering that it belongs to non-comedogenic oils or mildly comedogenic, it should be used sparingly with oily skin. But, if you think that it is therefore unsuitable for one of the most problematic skin types - combination, you are wrong.
Almond oil stops excessive secretion of sebum, and cleans and narrows facial pores.
You can also use it to remove make-up, as care for dry and chapped lips, and hair care. Due to its wide application, it is clear why almond oil is so loved.
Walnut oil belongs to the top non-comedogenic oils
Throughout the centuries, walnuts have been an indispensable part of our lives. And not without reason! There are so many benefits that the consumption of walnuts gives us, from application in nutrition, medicine, painting, for wood care, to use in cosmetics.
We have dedicated a special article to this amazing plant, and here we want to look at the effects of walnut oil on the skin.
For oily and blackhead-prone skin, walnut oil works wonders and belongs to non-comedogenic oils. Therefore, it can be found in various creams, serums, baths and other pomades, intended for this type of skin, mostly thanks to the high proportion of linolenic acid.
When combined with other medicinal ingredients, walnut oil will enhance their effect and thus have a much richer effect on your skin.
Walnut oil promotes skin health and has been used since ancient times as an anti-wrinkle agent. It also has anti-inflammatory and disinfecting properties and protects your skin from free radicals.
With regular use, you will notice a visible improvement in the condition of your skin.
Hazelnut oil
Next to the healing walnut oil, hazelnut oil is also indispensable. Intended for both external and internal use, hazelnut oil is extremely suitable for oily skin. Nourishes the skin and has a balancing effect, hazelnut oil is non-comedogenic, absorbs quickly and supports healthy sebum production.
The high proportion of unsaturated fatty acids and vitamin E give this oil the power to successfully fight against the signs of aging and to strengthen the skin's natural barrier.
Hazelnut oil is often used for hair care, as it nourishes the ends, but also maintains the freshness of dyed hair.
Pumpkin oil
In addition to serving as a medicine for many diseases, pumpkin oil has also found its application in cosmetics, since it has proven successful in treating extremely dry facial skin, as well as against hair loss.
Pumpkin oil owes this ability to numerous vitamins (A, D, C, E and B1, B2, B6) and minerals (magnesium, zinc, calcium, phosphorus, potassium, etc.).
The combination of vitamin A and zinc is particularly effective in the fight against wrinkles, acne or psoriasis, and vitamins E and C are very effective antioxidants.
As our face is the part of the body that is most exposed to external influences, we must give it extra care and apply those products that are of proven origin and composition, but also suitable for a specific skin type.
At Royal Balm, we make sure that our users know at all times what they are putting on their face and what effect it will have.
If you include the use of one of the mentioned face oils in your daily routine, your skin will surely thank you, healthy and youthful.
The Best Non-Comedogenic Oils
1. Jojoba Comedogenic Rating 2
Regarded as a desert Island ingredient that does it all, jojoba is not actually an oil, but rather a liquid wax ester. But don’t let that scare you. Because of this, jojoba oil chemically resembles the oil our skin naturally produces and does not clog pores. Jojoba oil is biomimetic, functioning similar to human sebum (oil), making it nature’s perfect moisturizer.
2. Rosehip Seed Oil Comedogenic Rating 1
This rosy red powerhouse of an oil is quickly rising in popularity due to its wealth of skin beneficial properties. Obtained from the seeds and skin of the rosehip fruit that grows on the rose bush (yes, rose bushes produce fruit), rosehip seed oil is considered a dry oil, sinking into skin effortlessly without clogging pores. Plus, it’s rich in omega-6 linoleic fatty acid and rejuvenating beta-carotene, also known as pro-vitamin A, along with corrective vitamin E and phytosterols.
3. Grape Seed Oil Comedogenic Rating 1
Who would have guessed that a byproduct of the wine industry would end up being an A-list player in your skincare routine? Grape seed oil is one of the best non-comedogenic oils that’s also high in linoleic acid, with a whopping average of 70% omega-6 linoleic acid, making it ideal for oily, acne-prone or anyone prone to clogged pores. Grape seed oil is known for its sebum-regulating benefits and contains a plethora of skin nourishing antioxidants such as vitamin E.
4. Black Cumin Seed Oil Comedogenic Rating 2
This ancient ingredient is not one you find often in a facial oil formula, but trust us, it should be! Touted as a blemish antidote, black cumin oil has been used for thousands of years for its numerous benefits. It contains unique properties that help to create a hostile environment for blemishes, thus reducing the appearance of breakouts and promoting a clear-looking complexion.
5. Prickly Pear Seed Oil Comedogenic Rating 1
This rare and precious oil is extracted from the fruit from the prickly pear cactus. It’s prized for having the highest concentration of vitamin E compared to most plant oils. It’s also rich in protective antioxidants and revitalizing phytocompounds. It contains roughly 60% omega-6 linoleic acid and feels like silk when applied to the skin, promoting a distinct softness and glow.
6. Raspberry Seed Oil Comedogenic Rating 1
This iconic summer berry produces some of the freshest smelling and top performing non-comedogenic oil you could ask for. Plus, it’s abundant in omega-6 linoleic acid and omega-3 alpha-linoleic acid, making it ideal for sensitive skin. Raspberry seed oil acts as a potent antioxidant due to the presence of vitamin E and carotenoids. It’s rich in texture, so it’s best to look for a facial oil blend that includes this nutrient-rich oil.
7. Squalane Comedogenic Rating 0
This ultra-light, biomimetic oil is highly compatible with acne-prone and oily skin types. Plus, it helps to balance oil production. Squalane acts as an antioxidant, which means it provides protection against free-radicals and their negative effects on skin. Squalane is an emollient, providing excellent moisturizing benefits that help to dramatically soften and smooth skin.
Common Non-Comedogenic Oils
So now that we’ve reviewed some of the best non-comedogenic oils that deliver major skin benefits, let’s review some of the most commonly used oils that didn’t make our best of the best list. You’ll notice sunflower oil and safflower oil in many facial oil formulas. They are used as inexpensive filler oils to cut down on costs. Sunflower and safflower oil can be non-comedogenic, as long as they aren’t the high oleic type, which is why we don’t recommend them. You just can’t be sure that they are non-comedogenic, unless it’s stated. In addition, they do not offer significant benefits, beyond moisturizing. Due to the fact that these oils are mass produced for the food and cosmetic industry, they are often highly refined, which removes the skin beneficial vitamins and antioxidants that deliver results.
Comedogenic Oils AKA Pore-Clogging Oils
Below we list some common comedogenic oils aka pore clogging oils that we don’t recommend using undiluted on the face. However, just because an oil has a high comedogenic rating doesn’t necessarily mean you can’t benefit from it. Many times, these oils are used in a blend that minimizes the overall chance of clogged pores.
Coconut Oil
Avocado Oil
Apricot Kernel Oil
Castor Oil
Shea Butter
Cocoa Butter
Palm Kernel Oil
Soybean Oil